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Beautifully restored 9" Model A South Bend lathe--KS
If you've been looking far and wide for a metal lathe for your shop, don't want the poor quality and kit form of an import and are not interested in restoring an older, worn machine, this is the lathe for you! Up for sale is a restored South Bend 9" Model A metal lathe, brought back to beyond factory new condition, complete with a very nice selection of quality tooling and measuring instruments. As well as being a very high precision metal working tool, it's a thing of beauty and would, I think, look great in a living room rather than a shop. My wife tends to think otherwise..............
This was not your typical clean it up, paint it and call it good "restoration". The lathe was stripped totally down with each component looked at as a seperate project, each component brought back to original condition. It was restored with an extreme attention to detail and with quality craftsmanship, as it should be!
What makes this lathe special is the fact that the bed, carrage and compound have been hand scraped back to factory specs, the moving surfaces were turcited and then scraped to the mating surface. Turcite, by the way, is a way strip composed of teflon impregnated with bronse that allows a machine tool rebuilder to create a very tight, very smooth and very accurate machine tool.
Both the carrage and compound dovetails were machined back to truth, then scraped and turcited, they are smooth and dead on. Both feedscrew nuts were replaced and the carrage and compound were very carefully aligned to each other and to the bed. The tailstock was also carefully scraped and aligned to the axis of the spindle.
A new jackshaft was machined and four new oilite bushings were installed, along with a new idler gear bushing and a new apron handwheel bushing. All the castings were stripped to bare metal then given 3 coats of a Sherwin Williams industrial machine tool finish, the end result is truely a thing of beauty!
I fabricated brackets and added a Starrett 1" travel dial indicator to the carrage and a 2" travel Starrett indicator to measure longitudal travel. Both are adjustable and will allow precision machining without having to resort to reading the handwheel dials, not quite as handy as DRO but far beyond original.
The lathe is mounted on a custom bench with an 1 3/4" solid wood benchtop, heavy cast iron legs and a shelf beneath for tooling storage. An 1 1/2" x 8 spindle thread mount on each leg allow for storage of the chucks when not in use. All the tooling have holders made of very high quality Russian plywood, brought back from 2 years I spent working in Moscow. The entire machine is neat and tidy and will be a pride and joy tool in your shop!
The drive motor is a 1/2 hp, 1725 rpm Wagner induction repulsion unit that has been completely restored including it's windings dipped and baked, new bushings, turned down commutator and rewired. It's a very strong and smooth motor that's a nice match to the lathe.
Included with the lathe is a selection of measuring instruments that will go nicely in your toolbox! These are a Mitutoyo 0 to 1" .0001 mic, a Mitutoyo 1 to 2" .0001 mic, a Mitutoyo 8" dial caliper, a Mitutoyo .0005 dial indicator, a Starrett mount for the indicator and a Starrett 6" rule that is used to set your tools on center.
The tooling included with the lathe is:
* 5" 3 jaw chuck with indise and outside jaws,
* 6" 4 jaw chuck,
* set of 3 Armstrong safety drive dogs,
* clamp type drive dog,
* SB lever action collet closer with a spindle nose protector, spindle collet adaptor, tommy bar and a set of 10 collets,
* lantern type tool post,
* set of 6 Armstrong tool holders for the lantern tool post, including turning, cutoff, knurling and boring bar holders,
* Quick change tool post,
* 3 quick change tool holders,
* 1/2" Kawasiki keyless drill chuck on a #2 MT arbor, a very interesting chuck,
* 3/8" genuine German Albrech keyless chuck on a #2 MT arbor, there is none finer in a drill chuck!,
* headstock center and knockout bar,
* 2 #2MT live centers,
* #2MT dead center,
* #2MT center drill holder,
* 10 1/4" toolbits for the Armstrong holder, ground and sharpened,
* 10 3/8" toolbits for the QCTP,
* Boring bar and adapter for the QCTP,
* thread dial indicator for the carrage,
* tail stock set over test bar,
* SB wrench,
* a copy of the South Bend book "How To Run a Lathe", one of the best handbooks on lathes ever written, truely a classic!
* a copy of several South Bend lathe maintenance pamphlets,
* a bottle of spindle oil,
* a bottle of way oil,
* a can of touch up paint!
This is a fine package that will allow you to mount the lathe in your shop and go to work making chips! It's ready for another lifetime of precision work and will keep you occupied for endless hours!
I'm located in Hepler, KS, 32 miles from Pittsburg, KS, 60 miles NW of Joplin, Mo.
If your interested in visiting about the lathe, please give me a call. My number is 620-368-4290, both days and evenings.
I'm asking $4000.00 for the package, the price reflects not only the best example of a quality American lathe to be found but an extreme attention to detail and craftsmanship in the restoration.
Picture this lathe in your shop and dream of all the neat things you can machine on it!
I'm also available to restore your lathe to it's former glory, give me a call and we can visit.
First, welcome to the forum!
I must say that it is a lovely lathe and the tooling is going to give someone a really nice start (really nice). I'd love to see it in the flesh, but I'm too far away (and I'm not in the market for another lathe anyway --I'd just love to look it over).
I've been reading, off and on, about Turcite, but have never met anyone with first hand experience with it --obviously you are pleased with it, and given the expense of it I'd sure hope you would be. Have you used it much your self on your own daily use projects? I've been wondering about it's durability for at least semi hard use mating surfaces, any tips about it would be appreciated.
I'm sure your lathe will find a good home fairly quickly, someone will not see the price as high, but rather the item(s) as inexpensive --but good luck with it anyway (never hurts to hold a good thought).
Thanks for the kind words on the lathe, I wish I could show you it and the other machines I've done over the years, you sound like one who would appreciate them!
Turcite is the only way to go in rebuilding a machine as it allows one to have very tight, very accurate and very smooth movement. It's not really that expensive, 2 years ago I bought it by the square foot and 2 square feet, one .018 thickness, the other .032 thickness, was less that $100.00 and has allowed me to do 2 large lathes and one small one with quite a bit left over.
I don't use the factory epoxy but, don't laugh now, tend to like a metal filled epoxy like JB weld. I did my first turciting job on my 10" Sheldon lathe 14 years ago after I took Dick King's scraping class and used JB weld. I had the carrage off a year ago and it was holding fine. I did some tests where I epoxied turcite down then tried to remove it, you really can't get it to let go.
I'm also quite a fan of the West boat building epoxy system, it's really the best there is, but like most good things, is spendy. It also works very well on turcite.
I hand scrape both surfaces first, clean the short surface where the turcite is going to be applied with lacquer thinner, then epoxy it down, clamping the surfaces together so the turcite will be nice and flat. Generally I'll use way oil on the surrounding surfaces to keep them from being epoxied together.
From there, I use the scraped mating surface as a template to scrape the turcite in. I use a half round minature scraper to add oil channels in the turcite and generally add oil passages and ball oilers to the castings so I can get oil to the turcited surface.
Turcite is not hard to scrape and blues up nicely. It takes a more delicate touch than cast iron as it's much softer. Doing final alignment of ways is easier after using turcite as I can bring things in to truth quicker.
I don't do machine tool rebuilding commercially, my background is in aircraft maintenance, watchmaking and precision minature machining with a side trip along the way working in Moscow, Russia for two years. I find rebuilding machine tools to be a passion that I've followed for 30 years, seeing just how precise one can make a machine is quite fun!
I think it took me 10 years of practice to get good at scraping. The actual scraping is not hard, the hard part is knowing where to scrape! Over the years I've aquired surface plates, straight edges, jigs, fixtures, scrapers, indicators and Phil's version of a King Way aligner that allow me to know where I'm at and where I'm going. Scraping cycles are like magic, I get lost in the process!
That is a really fine restoration. Wow!
It will be interesting to see if it sells for your asking price. Considering the time that went into it and all the extras it will hopefully be adopted by a perfectionist.