To bolt or not to bolt?

[Bootsranck]

I'm new to the group and have enjoyed reading the different threads. I just bought an Atlas TH54. I have it all cleaned up and back together and in the place it will stay. Should I bolt the feet to the concrete? Suggestions?

[mfisher]

I am also new to this group. I am glad I found it. I recently bought a Atlas
12 x 36 in. I am planning on making some pads to level and bolt it to
the floor. I just figure that it might cut down on some vibration. Any
Atlas veterans out there do the same?

[jeff]

I would just use some adjustable leveling feet.

[kenwc]

Just my opinion but bolting it to the floor is sort of a long term comittment to having holes in your concrete (if that's what we're talking about here)...

My Atlas is actually going to be on casters. I don't intend to make any parts for the space shuttle so I think I'll be just fine.

[John Gilyard]

Jeff,

Do you sell leveling feet?

[VPT]

I agree with Ken.

[Wheels]

Jack screw level on isolation pads of some sort.
This is my Mill Drill on nylon blocks.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...kWheels760.jpg

[Mondo]

My old lathe is bolted to the floor.

Bolting to a concrete floor represents a relatively long term committment, yes, but is by no means a lifetime. If moved to another location the holes can be filled and leveled flush easily enough with a handful of concrete filler available at any local hardware store.

The Atlas Manual of Lathe Operation and Machinist Tables recommends, no, requires, bolting to the floor. I am sure it will reduce vibration by transmitting that energy to the floor, and bolting to the floor will also prevent it from getting tipped over. The spread of those cast iron legs is barely a foot front-to-back and the center of gravity is quite high. I can just see it now, a small slip or insignificant incident turns into a disaster as the lathe crashes into the sheetrock wall at the back of my garage...

The heavier under-drive cabinet models aren't so prone to tipping over, but if not bolted down I think I would want a thin vibration dampening shim of some sort between the steel and the concrete. It is surprising how chatter can be transmitted down to the floor and then reflect right back up through the steel causing the cabinet to imperceptably bounce on the floor amplifying the vibrations. Bolting solidly to a concrete floor will minimize this.

-Mondo

[Professor]

You will get as many opinions as there are forum members.

I didn't bolt mine down. I have the narrow cast-iron legs but have never had the lathe tip. Nor do I seem to have undue vibration.

I don't have my bed leveled (but I do have it squared to the headstock so I don't turn a taper). I used some cedar shakes as shims to take up any unevenness in the floor so it wouldn't wobble. Not elegant but I seem to be able to make parts with it just fine.

[kenwc]

Originally Posted by Wheels

Jack screw level on isolation pads of some sort.
This is my Mill Drill on nylon blocks.
http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p...kWheels760.jpg

I like this solution also. I always use double locking casters that lock the swivel and the rolling but it really helps to add some outboard screw down supports.